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Din Tai Fung
World Square Shopping Centre, 644 George St, Sydney
(02) 9264 6010
Cuisine: Chinese
Opening hours: Daily 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5–10 p.m.

The condiments tray

Tommy raised the existence of this restaurant, and insisted we try out the authentic Taiwanese cuisine for about a week before we finally relented. DTF’s welcoming facade was a welcome salve for the otherwise cold and windy weather of this particular night. Its popularity was immediately apparent by the length of the queue. Complimentary jasmine tea is provided while you wait before being seated. For a group of 4 this was about 30 minutes. Through the observation glass you can see the clockwork efficiency of the kitchen staff, preparing for those fortunate enough already to be inside.

There is an art to the consumption of the dumplings on offer, with the instruction cards on the table providing little assistance for the inexperienced. DTF is famed for its dumplings with wafer-thin pastry. Carelessly picking up the morsels can break the exterior, wasting the small amount of soup inside which contains the bulk of the flavour. The trick is to pick up the dumpling from the top where the pastry is tied together and slightly thicker.

First up was the crab and pork dumpling. By itself, it can be plain, but combine it with the ginger and sauce dip, and you have an entree with real bite. The plain pork dumplings are much the same.

We ordered two noodle dishes — steamed beef, and “dandan”, noodles mixed with sesame and peanut sauce. The beef is served in a separate bowl to the plain noodles and is cooked until just tender, breaking apart easily. The motivation for order the dandan — it stood out because it is just my nicname repeated — paid off. Despite the relative simplicity of these dishes, they were surprisingly good.

The mashed taro dumplings, provide a much different experience, and is correctly placed in the dessert section. The taro is much denser than the meat dumplings and the sweet and savoury flavour is a suitable end to the meal.

As each dish is presented the immaculately dressed waitresses tick of the order on the receipt provided — another mark of the DTF’s efficient operation. This is delightfully combined with an overwhelming display of politeness from the staff, bordering on fawning.

While the decor is very warm and clean, the extensive use of glass and steel in the restaurant’s architecture detracts from the authenticity. Some may find the wooden furniture uncomfortable, but you’ll probably be too focussed on the delicious offerings to notice.

Conclusion: Mouth-watering food, but the servings may leave your stomach unsatisfied.

Food: 7/10
Service: 8/10
Ambience: 7/10
Value for money: 7/10
Overall: 7/10