Friday, August 8th, 2008...12:10 pm

Restaurant Review: Din Tai Fung

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Din Tai Fung


World Square Shop­ping Centre, 644 George St, Sydney
(02) 9264 6010
Cuisine: Chinese
Open­ing hours: Daily 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., 5 – 10 p.m.


The condiments tray

The con­di­ments tray

Tommy The Bell­boy psp raised the exist­ence of this res­taur­ant, and insisted we try out the authen­tic Taiwanese cuisine for about a week before we finally relen­ted. DTF’s wel­com­ing façade was a wel­come salve for the oth­er­wise cold and windy weather of this par­tic­u­lar night. Its pop­ular­ity was imme­di­ately appar­ent by the length of the queue. Com­pli­ment­ary jas­mine tea is provided while you wait before being seated. For a group of 4 this was about 30 minutes. Through the obser­va­tion glass you can see the clock­work effi­ciency of the kit­chen staff, pre­par­ing for those for­tu­nate enough already to be inside.

There is an art to the con­sump­tion of the dump­lings on offer, with the instruc­tion cards on the table provid­ing little assist­ance for the inex­per­i­enced. DTF is famed for its dump­lings with wafer-thin pastry. Care­lessly pick­ing up the morsels can break the exter­ior, wast­ing the small amount of soup inside which con­tains the bulk of the fla­vour. The trick is to pick up the dump­ling from the top where the pastry is tied together and slightly thicker.

First up was the crab and pork dump­ling. By itself, it can be plain, but com­bine it with the ginger and sauce dip, and you have an entrée with real bite. The plain pork dump­lings are much the same.

We ordered two noodle dishes — steamed beef, and “dandan”, noodles mixed with ses­ame and pea­nut sauce. The beef is served in a sep­ar­ate bowl to the plain noodles and is cooked until just tender, break­ing apart eas­ily. The motiv­a­tion for order the dandan — it stood out because it is just my nic­name repeated — paid off. Des­pite the rel­at­ive sim­pli­city of these dishes, they were sur­pris­ingly good.

The mashed taro dump­lings, provide a much dif­fer­ent exper­i­ence, and is cor­rectly placed in the dessert sec­tion. The taro is much denser than the meat dump­lings and the sweet and savoury fla­vour is a suit­able end to the meal.

As each dish is presen­ted the immacu­lately dressed wait­resses tick of the order on the receipt provided — another mark of the DTF’s effi­cient oper­a­tion. This is delight­fully com­bined with an over­whelm­ing dis­play of polite­ness from the staff, bor­der­ing on fawning.

While the décor is very warm and clean, the extens­ive use of glass and steel in the restaurant’s archi­tec­ture detracts from the authen­ti­city. Some may find the wooden fur­niture uncom­fort­able, but you’ll prob­ably be too focussed on the deli­cious offer­ings to notice.

Con­clu­sion: Mouth-watering food, but the servings may leave your stom­ach unsatisfied.

Food: 7/10
Ser­vice: 8/10
Ambi­ence: 7/10
Value for money: 7/10
Over­all: 7/10Quick­sand hd

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